Feather jewelry is a huge trend for Spring/Summer 2012! Celebrities like Vanessa Hudgens, Blake Lively, Miley Cyrus and Ke$ha have all been seen sporting feathered styles. Fashion Footprint will show you how to make a beaded feather bracelet that is environmentally friendly—and it will cost you under $20!
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In today’s world, we like everything fast—from our food to our cars to our fashion. Fast fashion is a new business model retailers have adopted in order to cash in on the consumer’s constant demand for new products at a low price, but this business model is as bad for the planet as fast food is for our health.
Big retailers, such as Zara and H&M, are well-known for implementing the fast fashion business plan. A fast fashion system combines short production and distribution timeframes with trendy styles. Fast fashion is lucrative because consumers demand a constant flow of new items on the selling floors, but don’t want to pay top-dollar for trendy items.
Since consumers know that the products are stocked in limited quantities, a “buy-it-now” frenzy occurs, where the consumer impulsively buys the item before it runs out. This enables retailers to profit off the consumer’s spontaneous buying decisions. It also allows retailers to sacrifice the quality of the merchandise because, by the time the consumer gets the item home, he or she is unlikely to return it due to the constraints of the company’s return policy.
Photo Credit: HelloBeautiful
The environmental impact of the fast fashion business plan is serious. The quick production and turnover that the system demands means that retailers will overlook both the quality of the merchandise and will forego using lengthier processes that may be more eco-friendly.
The use of water is one of the biggest threats fast fashion presents to the environment. Huge quantities of water are used to produce clothing. According to the Protected Water Fund, the production of one pair of jeans requires 11,000 liters of water and a single t-shirt uses 400 liters. This is a huge amount of water waste on clothing considering the United Nations recommends individuals need a minimum of 50 liters of water per day for drinking, washing, cooking and sanitation.
Photo Credit:The Huffington Post
The excessive use of water, combined with the retailers’ need to use the cheapest materials available prevents retailers from using eco-friendly fabrics, like organic cotton. The price of organic cotton is too high for fast fashion retailers to consider using. Organic cotton is 10 to 45% higher than regular cotton, because what the consumer is paying for is the guarantee that it was produced with clean water, fresh air, fair wages, sweatshop-free production and with a minimal environmental footprint (Everman, 2007).
Not only does the fast fashion industry negatively impact the environment, it also puts the workers who produce the clothing in the factories at risk. The human impact of the fast fashion business is alarming and unethical. In order to keep the cost of the merchandise down, retailers outsource the production jobs to other countries, where workers will work for less wages. According to the U.S. National Labor Committee, some Chinese factory workers make as little as 12 to 18 cents per hour (Cladio, 2007).
Photo Credit: Environmental Health Perspective
Not only are workers subjected to unfair wages, they are also exposed to unsafe working environments. A report in the Environmental Health Perspective states:
A textile worker takes a break at dawn after sanding jeans all night at a clothing factory in Guangdong Province, China. The blue dust from the jeans is a heavy irritant to the lungs. The factory where this worker is employed uses a wear-and-tear process to achieve the fashionable distressed look for the approximately 10,000 pairs of jeans it produces every day. Thousands of workers labor around the clock scrubbing, spraying, and tearing jeans in order to meet the production demand. China is one of the world’s largest producers of jeans (Claudio, 2007).
The wildly popular fast fashion business model meets the demands of consumers for fashionable items at an affordable price and retailers strive to profit by supplying this demand. But, between its environmental and human impacts, fast fashion comes at a steep price—the cost of the earth and humanity.
Works Cited:
Claudio, L. (2007). Waste couture: Environmental impact of the clothing industry. Environmental Health Perspective, 115(9), A449-A454.
Everman, V. (2007). How eco is organic cotton? Gaiam Life. Retrieved from: http://life.gaiam.com/article/how-eco-organic-cotton-facts-7-questions
Protected Water Fund. (2007). Water shortage facts. Retrieved from: http://www.pwf.co.im/watershortage.htm
Water Neutral. Q&A. Retrieved from: http://www.waterneutral.org/faq.asp
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This video shows the Raleigh Denim chambray pants (which are sold in Barney’s) being hand-dipped in a 100% natural Indigo dye bath to achieve a distinct and beautiful dark blue color. It is so interesting to watch the process!
(Source: raleighworkshop)
Photo Credit: Raleigh Denim Workshop
Trying to find a good pair of jeans and also a pair of jeans that do good for the world is almost impossible. In a small retail store in downtown Raleigh, North Carolina lies Raleigh Denim Workshop, where the impossible is made possible.
Raleigh Denim Workshop is a denim company run by Sarah and Victor Lytivenko, a husband-and-wife team, that is known for its well-made jeans that fit immaculately. Raleigh Denim produces styles with both fit and sustainability in mind. The team handcrafts the jeans using locally-sourced materials, all which come from within 200 miles of Raleigh.
Photo Credit: Raleigh Denim Workshop
Using vintage machines, the Lytivenkos design, sew, wash and finish each garment in the workshop. Each pair is produced as a limited-edition style and is inspected to ensure optimal quality. The Lytivenkos hand-sign the inside pocket to signify the jeans have passed inspection.
“We want people to know that every single pair is made by real people,’ said Sarah to Nylon Magazine.
Aa worker cuts through many layers of denim. PC: Raleigh Denim Workshop
An inside pocket, hand-signed by Victor and Sarah Lytivenko. PC: The Daily Green
There are many ways in which Raleigh Denim is benefitting the community. The company’s commitment to quality over quantity and individual input over automation, is in many ways a regressive notion that has turned progressive in an age where everything we consume is mass produced.
Sourcing raw materials locally, hiring actual people (and not computers), and producing items individually was the way production worked before mass production and outsourcing became popular. Raleigh Denim has reinstituted these antiquated ideas, and in the process, has shown that their unique business model can help revive the textiles industry and foster job growth in the U.S.
“Our company has grown to a size that is literally sustainable: a ‘sweet spot’ for small manufacturing, where we fit into the bigger industrial pipeline but are able to stay true to our ideals,” said Victor in a journal article about Raleigh Denim. “…We’ve had time to train our team and everyone is working effectively. We’ve grown organically, but steadily…”
Raleigh Denim’s focus on staying local and growing jobs in America is the reasoning behind the company’s choice to not use organic cotton. Victor told The Green Daily that using local cotton made more sense to him than shipping organic cotton from Pakistan or India. This decision enables him to work closely with local farmers and encourage them to start farming organically in the future.
Photo Credit: Raleigh Denim Curatory
Raleigh Denim also has a retail store, called the Curatory, where the jeans are sold alongside other items picked out by the couple. An array of items, such as bags, books, jewelry and perfumes, lay alongside neat racks of denim pants, collared shirts and lace shorts, creating a unique experience that makes one wonder if they have stumbled into an unchartered vintage boutique.
Raleigh Denim can be found in the Curatory, Barney’s New York and boutiques across America, as well as in Europe and Japan.
“When we moved in, we put the North Carolina state motto — ‘to be rather than to seem’ — on the front wall because it sums up what we’re aiming for,” said Victor. “I think we’ve found a good balance, and from here will push ourselves to learn more, and create more.”
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Do you ever feel guilty after spending a lot of money on a shopping spree? With Beulah London, you will never have buyer’s remorse.
Beulah London is a luxury brand started by Natasha Rufus Isaacs and Lavinia Brennan, whose inspiration for the label stemmed from their mutual love of fashion and desire to create social change. Beulah London is known for its beautiful, timeless pieces that are completely wearable and versatile enough for either day or night.
Creative directors of Beulah London, Natasha Rufus Isaacs and Lavinia Brennan. Photo Credit: Beulah London
The UK-based retailer is inspired by the energy of India, a country the label has worked with to institute its ethical, fair trade practices. When Natasha and Lavinia took a trip to India in October 2009, the women worked with victims of trafficking in the southern slums of Delhi. From this experience stems the charitable heart of Beulah London, a company committed to making a social impact while producing beautiful and ethically sourced clothing. Now, Beulah London aides women who have been victims of the rampant sex trade in India and the United Kingdom. The brand donates 10% of all proceeds towards community-based projects in India that are helping to alleviate the sex trafficking issue.
Photo Credit: ADRA
According to an official estimate from the Dalit Freedom Network, there are 3 million prostitutes in India, and of these, 1.2 million are children. Some believe these numbers to be even higher— there are NGO reports that indicate there may be up to 15 million sex workers in India. The brand also recognized the need for aid in their own country when the Association of Chief Police Officers reported that there were up to 12,000 women being forced into sex slavery in the United Kingdom.
The Spring/Summer 2012 collection is vivid and cheery—mixing rich hues like coral, fuchsia and royal blue with girly prints. The collection features flattering styles such as v-necklines, empire waist dresses and airy maxi skirts and dresses.
Photo Credit:Beulah London
The styles are made out of luxurious silk and cotton and retail for between £100 and £600.
For more information, visit www.BeulahLondon.com or find them on Facebook & Twitter!
Works Consulted:
Dalit Freedom Network UK, (2012). Modern slavery in India: Sex trafficking. Retrieved from: http://dfn.org.uk/trafficking/sex-trafficking.html
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As a developing country, India is working towards a brighter future through sustainable development. In the past few years, the Centre for Sustainable Fashion worked on a project to introduce sustainable textiles in India. Partnering with the Department for Environmental Food and Rural Affiars (Defra), the project worked to introduce ecological textiles in India, position India into the sustainable textiles market and enable India to trade eco-friendly textiles to retailers in the United Kingdom.
A second project was initiated to revamp the Indian dye houses in order to make them more eco-friendly. From 2009 through 2011, Color Connections Ltd. worked with the Indian dye houses that supply the UK market to reduce the environmental impact of the houses.
Women in a village in India pick the cotton crops. PC: CNN
These projects are examples of the progress India is making in sustainable development and agriculture. India’s production of textiles accounts for 14% of its production and 17% of the country’s exports. India exports its textiles worldwide, and according to Defra’s Sustainable Clothing Roadmap, while India’s textile export industry is an economic success story that grosses over $500 billion, the industry has a serious environmental and social footprint associated with its supply chain.
An assessment was done to find out exactly what India’s environmental impact was before it moved towards sustainable development. Researchers assessed its use of water, its greenhouse gas emissions and its chemical pollution. It was determined that Indian cotton was the worst offender of all the textiles.
Indian cotton accounts for 16% of the world’s production and provides jobs for 40 to 50 million people (Hussain, 2010). However, the cotton industry is known to use large quantities of water and chemicals during the process.
An organic cotton farmer carries a bale of cotton. PC: Greta Blue
India is now offering fair trade, organic cotton and has emerged as the second least expensive producer of organic cotton behind Tanzania. The fair trade and organic combination appeals to retailers abroad because it is good for marketing.
The Maikaal Project worked to transform the way cotton was being produced in India. It helped to lessen the agricultural impact on the environment as well as yield higher profits for the farmers by substituting synthetic fertilizers and pesticides with organic farming techniques. In 2005, Maikaal bioRe® was established in central India and the initiative set up 1500 small farms and produced 1,000 tons of cotton.
An organic farm from the Maikaal Project in central India. Photo Credit: ETH
Though there are still several issues to overcome, the future for sustainable development in India is promising. By switching to eco-friendly agriculture, the farmers are likely to yield more profit from the crops while reducing their impact on the environment.
Works Consulted:
Department for Environmental Food and Rural Affairs, (2009). Sustainable clothing roadmap: Summary of Defra commissioned projects under the sustainable clothing action plan. Retrieved from: http://archive.defra.gov.uk/environment/business/products/roadmaps/documents/summary-projects-sustain-clothing-ap.pdf
Hussain, A. (2010). Sustainable textiles for fashion from India. Department for Environmental Food and Rural Affairs. Retrieved from: http://sd.defra.gov.uk/2010/09/sustainable-textiles-for-fashion-from-india/
Swiss Federal Institute of Technology Zurich, (2011). The impact of organic cotton cultivation on the livelihood of Indian smallholders. Research Fellowship Partnership Programme. Retrieved from: http://www.rfpp.ethz.ch/fellowships/concluded_fellowships/organiccotton
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Those fur-loving fashionistas who were disappointed to hear about the harmful impact fur farming has on the environment can rest easy knowing that other options are available.
Our designer of the week, Ambika Conroy, is an excellent example of how, with a little creativity and a working knowledge of sustainable agriculture, the fashion industry can evolve to become more environmentally friendly.
“I just couldn’t understand why we had to torture and kill all these sweet animals, when we could make an equally warm and luxurious product humanely,” Conroy said on her website.
Designer Ambika Conroy with one of her Angora rabbits. Photo Courtesy of Ambika
Ambika Boutique offers a Friendlyfur line of accessories and attire that is made out of Angora rabbit fiber. The Angora rabbits are raised on Conroy’s farm in Upstate New York where they are loved, cared for and humanely shorn and sheared.
“My first two [Angora rabbits] lived with me in Brooklyn and would hang out on the couch and watch movies,” Conroy said on her website. “I sought out spinning classes after their fiber started piling up, and my obsession continued from there.”
Photo Courtesy of Ambika
The bunnies have a natural molting cycle of three months, and when the fiber length reaches a minimum of three inches, Conroy shears the animals and spins the fiber into yarn. After shearing, the raw material is washed with a natural detergent to ensure that it is clean. This step will also remove most of the fur’s allergenic properties. Next, the fur is carded, or brushed, to align the fibers and is then spun into a single strand. Finally, two of the single strands are spun together to form a durable 2-ply yarn that is ready to be crocheted!
Ambika Boutique offers a wide-variety of products—from furry mittens to a luxurious fur jacket. Prices range from $145 for some of the accessories up to $1,800 for the jacket.
Photo Courtesy of Ambika
Consumers can customize their order by choosing from an array of pewter closures that are hand cast by a company in the United States of America. Ambika also gives customers a choice of color. Ambika offers a variety of of natural colors like white, oatmeal, caramel, chocolate and grey.
Photo Courtesy of Ambika
Each garment is handmade by a group of women in the Catskill Mountains of New York, who Conroy employs to help her crochet the garments. Since all orders are custom-made, the company asks customers to please allow anywhere from two to eight weeks for delivery, depending on the size of the order.
Ambika also offers a collection of crochet swimwear that takes on a completely different aesthetic, proving the versatility of the Angora yarn.
Photos Courtesy of Ambika
Prices for the bikinis range from $125 to $325 and come in a variety of styles, colors and prints. The beautiful swimwear is a must-have for the upcoming summer season. To order, please visit www.AmbikaBoutique.com!
The fashion industry’s use of fur has been a contentious topic for decades, but the introduction of fur as an eco-friendly material may be the biggest piece of fiction conjured up by the fur industry to date.
Furriers are trying to “greenwash” the industry by using deceptive marketing to convince consumers that fur is natural, and therefore, environmentally friendly. While animal fibers do occur naturally and are a renewable resource, the environmental impact of harvesting the material is considerable due to the amount of pesticides and chemicals used to produce the fur and the by-products of the animals themselves—all of which contribute to water and air pollution, as well as global warming [1].
An advertisement run by the European Fur Breeders’ Association that was banned in March 2012 for claiming fur is eco-friendly. Photo Courtesy of Guardian Sustainable Business
According to the International Trade Fur Federation, eighty-five percent of the animal skins come from fur farms [2]. These animals produce waste that can lead to pollution and disrupt nearby water supplies. For example, Bursjian (2003) said that each mink produces 44 pounds of feces during the span of its life on the farm [3]. According to a USDA report, in 2010 there were 2,822,200 minks killed for their fur in the United States [4]. This means that 124,176,800 pounds of waste containing phosphorus, a harmful by-product found in the urine and feces of animals, was released into the environment. This results in abnormally high levels of phosphorous in the soil. Subsequently, the erosion of the farmland can lead to water pollution, as well as eutrophication—the excessive richness of nutrients in a body of water, which causes algae to thrive and animals to die from a lack of oxygen [5].
A lake that has been affected by eutrophication, seen in the overgrowth of algae. Photo Courtesy of Soil Net
Not only does raising livestock contribute to water pollution, it also affects air quality. The animals on the farm release ammonia into the air through the by-products of their waste [6]. According to the Environmental Protection Agency (2004), ammonia emissions contribute to the formation of smog in the air. In the United States, smog has decreased natural visibility from 90 miles to between 15 and 20 miles in the East and from 140 miles to between 35 and 90 miles in the West [6]. The ammonia emissions pose a threat to the air quality of our planet by acidifying the soil, exacerbating the problem of eutrophication and increasing the amount of smog.
Smog over Los Angeles, California. Photo Courtesy of Steven Buss (via Flickr)
Ammonia emissions can also have a negative impact on human health. The exposure to the chemical may result in irritation of the eyes and lungs. Currently, the Occupational Safety and Health Administration has established that an employee may be exposed to ammonia of 50 ppm over an eight-hour period, while the American Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygienists only recommends that a worker be exposed to 35 ppm of for 15 minutes [6]. These regulations may protect people when the ammonia levels are being regulated indoors, but if the levels of ammonia continue to rise, the outdoor pollution may result in widespread health issues. The chemical is dangerous because ammonia compounds to form very small particulate matter, which is especially dangerous because its small size allows it to penetrate deep into the lungs. Several community health studies reported a spike in respiratory and cardiovascular issues associated with particulate matter with 2.5 microns or less [6]. Particulate matter with this diameter will put children, the elderly and individuals who suffer from cardiovascular or lung disease at the most risk [6].
Photo Courtesy of Cobalt123 (via Flickr)
For years the fashion industry has debated over the ethical issue of wearing fur, but now the fur industry has used words like “natural” to indicate that fur is eco-friendly. This is pelt propaganda—lies created to greenwash the fur industry and reposition it as an environmentally friendly material. The truth about fur is that the farms where the animals are harvested are harming human health and having a devastating impact on the earth.
References:
[1] Hethorn, J. & Ulasewicz, C. (2008). Sustainable fashion: Why now?: A conversation bout issues, practices, and possibilities (p. 330). New York, NY: Fairchild Books, Inc.
[2] International Trade Fur Federation. (2009). Fast Facts. Retrieved from: http://www.iftf.com/#/facts-sheets/2/
[3] PETA. Wool, fur, and leather: Hazardous to the environment. Retrieved from: http://www.peta.org/issues/animals-used-for-clothing/wool-fur-and-leather-hazardous-to-the-environment.aspx
[4] United States Department of Agriculture. (2011, July 8). Minks. Retrieved from http://usda.mannlib.cornell.edu/usda/current/Mink/Mink-07-08-2011.txt
[5] Net Industries. Phosphorus. JRank Science Encyclopedia. Retrieved from: http://science.jrank.org/pages/5141/Phosphorus.html
[6] Gay, G.W. & Knowlton, K.F. (2009). Ammonia emission and animal agriculture. Virginia Cooperative Extension. Retrieved from: http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/442/442-110/442-110_pdf.pdf
(Source: fashionfootprint)
